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Sett Chart

The Gather Sett Chart is meant to be used as a starting point to help you save time determining the ideal sett for your project. Determining the ideal sett often requires some trial and error. Ruler wrapping, and sampling are truly the best way to determine sett, but this chart is a great place to start!



Material

Yards/Pound

Sett

Project Specific Recommendations

16/2 Cotton

6,720

20-30

20 epi plain weave: open gauze

24 epi plain weave: drapes well

28 epi plain weave: firm

30 epi twill: drapes well

8/2 Cotton

3,360

16-20

18 epi plain weave: perfect tea towels 

20 epi twill: perfect tea towels

Combine with boucle cotton weft at 16 epi in twill for a fuzzy and super absorbent towel

Boucle Cotton

2,300

12

12 epi plain weave 

8/4 Cotton

1,680

10-16

10 epi plain weave: excellent drape

12 epi twill: excellent drape

16 epi twill: firm, lies flat

Combine with boucle in twill at 12 epi for heavy duty towels

Combine with 8/8 cotton in twill at 12 epi for chunky table runners or placemats

2/8 Cottolin

3,360

16-20

See notes for 8/2 cotton

Bamboo

3,360

18-24

18 epi plain weave: excellent drape

24 epi twill: excellent drape

Seine Twine 

(#6, #9, #12)

#6: 840

#9: 670

#12: 1,260

4-10

#6: 4-6 epi

#9: 6-8 epi

#12: 8-10 epi

Sett should be determined to cover the warp entirely for a weft facing project with a seine twine warp.

Alpaca 3/10

1,730

10-16

10 epi plain weave: drapey scarf

12 epi plain weave: more substantial scarf/blanket

16 epi twill: warm blanket or scarf with beautiful drape

Briggs and Little Heritage Wool

860

6-8

6 epi: plain weave

8 epi: twill blanket

Pair with a seine twine warp at 4-6 epi for a sturdy rug

Normandy Linen

16/6, 800 

16/4, 1200  

16/2, 2400 

40/2, 6000 

30/1, 9000 

6-10

10-14

20-24

30-36

36-40

6-8 epi plain weave, 8-10 epi twill

10-12 epi plain weave, 12-14 epi twill

20 epi plain weave, 24 epi twill

30 epi plain weave, 36 epi twill

Plain weave 36, Twill 40

Silk Noil 2 ply

2,700

18-24

18-20epi: Plain Weave

24epi: Twill

Silk Noil 4 ply

1,360

10-12

10epi: Plain Weave

12epi: Twill

Organic Cotton 3/2

1,260

12-16

12epi plain weave: super soft 

16epi twill: super soft and drapey

8/2 Slub Cotton

3,750

16-20

Same as for 8/2 cotton

Harrisville Shetland

1,800

8-12

8epi plain weave: scarf

10epi twill: blanket

12epi twill: heavy duty blanket

3 Ply Cottolin

1,136

8-12

8-10epi: plain weave

10-12epi: twill

2 Ply Merino Wool

809

6-10

6-8epi plain weave: fluffy scarf/blanket

10epi twill: blanket



Text to accompany reed substitution chart


The purpose of the reed is to spread out the threads as evenly as possible to create the appropriate width and cloth density for your project. Your sett might not always spread in the reed with an equal number of ends in each dent. The goal is to spread the threads out as evenly as possible. Sometimes that will mean more than one thread per dent. Having a variety of reeds available is ideal, but if you have only one reed you can still make most projects work. The more evenly you can spread out the threads, the less streaking you will have in your cloth. 


Generally, it is best to aim for as few threads per dent in your reed as possible. More than 2 or 3 ends in each dent can leave reed marks in your cloth that will not come out with wet finishing. Eventually, you will want a selection of reeds to choose from. A 12 dent reed is the most flexible reed and an excellent reed if you have only one. As you gain experience and want to add to your collection, an 8, 10 and 15 dent reed will allow you to weave well at almost any sett. 


Your reed can also be used as a design tool. Purposely threading your reed more densely in some areas and less in others can create a variegated cloth where the spacing becomes a design feature. 


This chart is designed to assist you in determining the best way to sley your reed to achieve a given sett. See the following examples in order to best understand how the Reed Substitution Chart works. 


Example 1: You want to weave some 8/2 cotton tea towels at 18epi, but you only have a 12 dent reed. What should you do?

Answer: Sley your reed 2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1. This will give you a total of 18 epi using a 12 dent reed as consistently as possible.

Example 2: You want to weave a rug with the warp sett at 8epi, but you only have a 10 dent reed. What do you do?

Answer: Sley your reed 1-1-1-1-0-1-1-1-1-0. This will give you a total of 8 ends per inch using a 10 dent reed as consistently as possible. You may notice subtle streaking in the spaces with no thread. The streaking often becomes less visible after wet finishing. 


Pro Tip: Delicate yarns that can break with abrasion in the reed benefit from a more open reed. For example, a 10 epi nubby wool warp would prefer a 5 dent reed to a 10 dent reed.